The goal of this project was to build a 16″ x 16″ x 12″ box using the joining, cutting and post-processing methods explored in class the prior week. These included several adhesive free methods of joining timber, routing and varnishing.

To begin my project, I acquired the necessary plywood to cut out 4 sides and 1 bottom of my box. To achieve the desired LWH dimensions, some simple measurements and calculations needed to be made. Instead of cutting out 4 12″ x 16″ sides, 4 11.25″ x 15.25″ sides were cut out. This is because the thickness of the plywood was 0.75″, so when the sides were joined perpendicular to one another (as will be seen below), the total length is 15.25″ + 0.75″ = 16″. Also, because the base would also be 0.75″, the sides were made 12.25″ wide, such that the total height of the box would be 12″.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Following these measurements, the pieces were cut out on the table saw, using the table saw’s built in measurement system. This would allow each of the side to be passed through on the same 11.25″ pass and the same 15.25″ pass, so even if they were slightly off, they would all the same.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Following this, I placed each of the sides through the thickness planar in order to improve the quality of the faces and remove natural imperfections and imperfections as a result of storage and transport.

I then went about marking out my material for the side joins to be made, starting with the Kreg Jig. I deliberately chose one of the edges that had been chipped on the table saw to go on the inside, such that the damage would be better hidden.

The Kreg jig was aligned 1/3 of the way from the top and bottom of each side. Once all holes were drilled, I took my material downstairs to the wood shop to make the joints. Before doing this however, I used the orbital sander to get the sides close to finish quality, as they would be less easily accessible later.

Once these sides had been joined, forming two ‘L’ shapes, I used the other joining method covered in class to connect these L shapes. To do this, I used a clamp to connect the two parts and keep them aligned while the joining process was completed. Once secured, 3 equidistant pilot holes were drilled along the appropriate side of each corner  – one at half way, and one at each quarter way. Keeping the clamp in place, the join was completed by using wood screws. This was then repeated for the other corner.

Having completed the construction of my bottomless box, it was time to attach the bottom. To do this, I aligned the bottom of the box with the bottomless box, with the bottom on top, and clamped the two pieces to the table. I then drilled a pilot hole in each corner, and connected the top using two wood screws. The purpose of doing this was so that I was able to drill the rest of the pilot holes without having to worry about the bottom possibly slipping out of places and ruining the alignment. The holes were then counterbored, and wood screws inserted successfully.

Having now completed the main construction process of the box, it was time to complete several post processing steps. The first step was to route the top edges to a continuous 45 degree bevel. This was done using the router and routing table in the wood shop, and was quite a simple process. To smoothen out the freshly routed edges, a wood block with sandpaper wrapped around was used. The purpose of the below as to ensure that the flat edge was not rounded out by direct contact with a soft surface, such as a hand, while sanding

 

 

 

 

 

 

The bottom edges were not exactly flush with the side edges, so some material needed to be removed. Some were almost flush, but not exactly, so the orbital sander could be used. However, two of the edges had more of the bottom protruding than would be reasonable to remove with the orbital sander. A few passes with a small wood plane solved this issue, and the remaining rough finish was simply smoothened out with the orbital sander afterwards.

As a result of the joining method using the Kreg Jig, there were several unsightly holes left over on the inside of the box. To combat this, a wood filler was made using the left over saw dust from previous processes (mainly the table saw and thickness planer) and wood glue in a mixture. This was easily applied to the holes and left to dry.

Once the wood filler had dried, it was easily treated by sanding with a high grit paper, and then going over again with the orbital sander to produce a smoother finish.

Finally, to treat the box, a finish was applied. This makes the box look to be a higher quality material than it really is, and ends up being quite aesthetically pleasing.

 

COSTS:

Materials:

• Construction grade plywood (23/32″):
  • 12″ x 16″ sides (4)
  • 16″ x 16″ sides (1)
    • Total area : 1024 sq. in.
    • Total paid for area (add 20% for waste) = 1230 sq. in.  = 8.5 sq. ft.
    • 4 x 8  (32 sq. ft. )of 23/32″ construction grade plywood, $17.97 (https://www.ezwoodshop.com/plywood/plywood-prices.html)
  • Cost = 8.5 / 32 * $17.97 = $4.77
• Wood Glue:
  • Gorilla Glue: $4.97 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-2-oz-Original-Gorilla-Glue-269/100130236)
  • Cost = $4.97

Labor:

• Average carpenter’s Salary hourly (Texas): $17.04
• Hours worked: 4
• Cost = $68.16

Total Cost = $4.77 + $4.97 + $68.16 = $77.90