I first began the process of laser-cutting my box by measuring the laser kerf. Using the provided template, I measured the gap of the edge of the template rectangle to the inner columns to be 0.1105″, meaning the kerf is around 0.011″.

This also allowed me to test that the laser cut well at 6 speed, 100 power, and 10 frequency. This was the value I used for all my future vector cuts. For the etching, I used the table on the wall for the setting corresponding to “text engraving”: 600 DPI, 50 speed, 100 power.

I then measured my wood, which turned out to be 0.11″ thick and chose a finger size of 0.59125″. I thought this setting had enough fingers and also looked the best in how the sunken corners on some of the edges were the same length as the rest of the edges. Here was the design (edges have been made thicker to stand out):

It took many, many tries to get a good kerf. I printed out two sides each time to test the kerf. The first time, the box fitting was a little too tight, so I lowered the kerf. However, I accidentally wrote the value as 10 times what I wanted it to be (i.e. off by one decimal place). As such, as I was watching the laser cutting machine, it was clearly asymmetrical, so I stopped the laser to reset and change my dimensions. I made another mistake this time, in not realizing that I had to click off the input box for the kerf size to be changed; as such, I actually didn’t change the kerf size at all and started cutting an equivalent job. Once again, upon realizing the mistake, I stopped the laser. It took a few more tries to get a good kerf, where I settled on 0.011″, but what I ultimately learned is that although I need to check the numbers and dimensions are entered correctly, I also need visually inspect the SVG vector to ensure everything makes sense. Below is a picture of all my failed attempts.

Looking back, it would have been a better idea to just cut out two edges instead of two whole sides to preserve the amount of wood I was using.

After getting a good kerf, I cut out my whole box with my name, the course, and semester etched on one side, and my college crest (Sid) on another. This was how it turned out:

In attempting to assemble the sides, I realized one big issue: the depth of the box was wrong. I’m not sure at what point I made the mistake: whether I measured the wood incorrectly, didn’t input it right into the website, or otherwise. But this caused the box to be a little looser than expected. Nevertheless, with a rubber mallet, I was able to join the sides into place.

I then sanded the sides to remove the laser burns, especially on the sides with etched text/diagrams. Here is a comparison of the before and after:

And finally, a picture of my last-used workspace:

In total, I would break down the cost as follows:

• Wood:
  • Used: 1/8 inch plywood, 20″ x 20″
  • Online research: Home Depot offers $6.49 for 1/8 inch hardwood that is 48″ x 24″
  • Cost: Doing the conversion, the cost for 400 in-sq. would then be $2.25.
• Sandpaper:
  • Used: 280 grit sand paper
  • Online research: Amazon has 10 pieces of 280 grit paper for $6.99.
  • Cost: Since I only used one piece, it would be $0.70.
• Laser cutting machine operation:
  • Used: 1.5 hours
  • Online research: According to an article by Donald Hoffman in FAB Shop Magazine Direct, a CO2 laser cutter has operation costs of about $12.73 per hour.
  • Cost: $19.10
• Labor:
  • Used: 2.5 hours
  • Online research: According to Zip Recruiter: “the average hourly pay for a Laser Cutting Operator in Texas is $19.26 an hour.”
  • Cost: $48.15
• Total: $70.20