Our second assignment was to create a wooden box that would be able to store our class materials for the semester. I worked with Abby as a partner for this project.

The first step in this process was to cut our pieces of wood to the appropriate lengths. We were provided with a list of dimensions, so we cut our wood to the following specifications:

• 9 x 14.5” long pieces of 1×4 lumber
• 6 x 12” long pieces of 1×4 lumber 
• 4 x 10-11” long pieces of 2×2 lumber

We used the miter saw to cut all 19 pieces of wood. Instead of measuring out each piece individually before cutting, we measured once and clamped a stop block to the right side of the saw. This meant that we could simply push the board up against this block after each cut and acquire a set of identically sized boards.

 

Once the wood was cut, we moved on to assembly. We elected to perform our sanding after the box had been assembled in case the assembly process revealed any problems with our boards that would require re-cutting.

For each screw, we first drilled a pilot hole using a 1/8″ drill bit. We then used a larger drill bit to countersink the screws and allow for them to be drilled flush with the wood. Initially, we used a drill bit that perfectly matched the size of the screw head. This bit, however, caused the board to chip and split towards the edge. We moved to a smaller counter-sink bit that reduced this problem while still enabling the screws to be drilled flush.

We used corner clamps to hold the boards in place while these screw holes were drilled. We used 2 screws to attach each board. Each screw was 3/8″ from the ends of the board, with one being 1″ from the top and one being 1″ from the bottom.

 

After successfully attaching 12 corners, we had three wooden frames that would eventually make the sides of our box. We selected the most level of these (all were very well aligned, but a couple wobbled when lying flat on the table) to be the bottom of the box.

We used our three remaining boards as the bottom of the box and placed them inside the frame. Two of them did not fit very well, so they were sanded down to a point where they could slide into place but still be in contact with the walls of the box. These three boards did leave some small gaps, but they were spaced evenly to where there was only ~1/8″ of space between each.

These three boards were attached using 12 screws, two in each side of each board. The same pilot hole/countersink method was employed, and each screw was 3/8″ from the bottom of the box and 1″ from the left or right of each board.

 

Next, we inserted our four posts into the bottom frame. These were clamped, drilled, and screwed in one at a time. We decided that one screw per post per frame would be sufficient to hold everything in place snugly. We aligned this screw with our other preexisting screws to achieve a neat, orderly look.

After the posts were attached to the first frame, we slid on the second frame. We used spare boards as spacers, giving us a 3/4″ gap between each frame. This frame was attached to the posts in the same way. We then repeated this process for the third frame.

After this process, the four posts protruded out from the top of the box about half an inch. We first attempted to sand these down, but progress was slow, so we moved to a quicker method. We took a hand saw and cut each post down to be flush with the top frame. This was effective, and any unevenness would be eliminated through our post-processing.

We then began to sand the box. We clamped it into place and used the orbital sander to go over all of the box’s faces. Some parts required extra attention to fix alignment issues and achieve a clean, professional look.

However, after sanding all faces, Dr. Wettergreen pointed out that our surfaces were very rough. We determined that this was likely due to the 60-grit sanding discs we were using. We then switched to a 100-grit disc and achieved much better results. After sanding the entire box with the 100-grit disc, we attached a 400-grit disc and sanded it again to achieve an even smoother finish.

After the box had been sanded, we cleaned up our work area and moved the box outside for finishing. We wiped and vacuumed the box to remove all loose particles/dust.

After considering the various finishing options, we elected to go with the dark walnut Danish oil. We wanted to retain the raw wood look while emphasizing the grains and darkening the wood. Neither of us had worked with oil before for finishing, so this was a fun, new experience as well.

 

We used paper towels to apply the oil, wiping it evenly over all exposed surfaces. We made sure to use extra care to apply the oil to any small caps in the box as well. After reaching our stopping point, we left the box on the drying rack.

 

A few days later, we returned to apply oil to the remainder of the box. This was done in the same way, and the box was again left on the drying rack.

 

After the project was completed, I performed a cost analysis for this production process. After factoring in the cost of materials, labor, and overhead, I calculated a final cost of $340.22.

 

Overall, this project was a ton of fun. I haven’t been able to do much woodworking since I left for college, but it’s great to be familiar with what the OEDK has to offer for any projects I may want to take on in the future!