Building a Crate

For this project, I decided to work alone so that I can maximize what I can learn from it. I chose the intermediate difficulty for this project. This experience was a lot more fun than I expected it to be, even if it took a very long time.

I used the pre-cut wood since it proved difficult to find the right kind of wood I would need in the woodshop. Below is a picture of the pre-cut wood I used for this project:

I thought it would be a good idea to do the post-processing before I assembled the crate, ironically. I began by sanding the wood by hand using 80 grit sandpaper to get rid of the top layer of the wood.

The next step was to use the router to create round edges. I did this for the longer edges since the shorter edges would be joined together. I used the table router in the machine shop, and it took quite a long time as I went slowly to make sure each edge was routed the same amount. Here is some of the routed wood. The rounded edges gave it a much more polished feel.

I then began to join the pieces of wood together. I expected this to be the easiest part, and indeed it was. It was very repetitive: drill pilot hole, drill counterbore, and drive the screw in. Here is the first frame I created:

In detail, the process I used to create this frame was first joining a longer piece with a smaller piece and doing this twice. I then joined these two pieces to form the frame. Although it sounds simple in theory, for some reason there was a 0.25″ gap left between the two pieces. I quickly solved this problem, however, when I made use of my woodworking training and used the band saw to create as straight a cut as I could. It wasn’t perfectly straight, and later experience with the jigsaw made me realize in hindsight that it probably would have been better to use that instead of the band saw for the purposes of straightness of cuts(or not, since my first time using it was kind of a mess, more on that later).

Repeating this process, I created the second frame, which is the first frame I ran into the issue just described. I purposely left the third frame unassambled at this stage because I realized it would be much easier to use the router, spindle sander, and sandpaper to smooth out the edges after I cut out my handle.

Now we run into the most difficult part of this project: cutting out the handle. I wanted to find a quick solution, so the simplest one I could think of that I had already used was the band saw. Of course, this was a bad idea. The curve I traced out had a very steep angle at its edges, and we all know the band saw can’t handle steep angled-cuts. I learned this the hard way because I forgot about it, and I tried making several straight cuts from the edge of the wood onto the curve, as is typically done, but that was not enough. I took a break and came back with a fresh perspective. As alluded to before, it was time to use the jigsaw. I immediately ran into a major issue: the clamps weren’t strong enough to hold the wood down, and I could only hold it by the edge. Instead of using quick-grip clamps, I opted for C-clamps. This was a much better solution. However, now the jigsaw wanted to move my entire body and the table, and the force was quite overwhelming. This meant I had to find another table that I could securely clamp the wood onto, and I eventually found one. At this point, cutting with the jigsaw was really smooth. I saw firsthand how much better it was a cutting a curved edge than the bandsaw. An issue that remained was that, in order to get enough clamping force, I would have to clamp the wood in a region that has a lot of area, so I would only be able to cut out half of the handle at a time. I solved this problem simply by clamping the other side and cutting the other half, meeting the previous cut halfway. It was quite difficult to make each half of the cut the same so that the cutout would be symmetric. I got around this problem by leveraging the same principles as creating the box of indeterminate size: I determined that I still had more space I could cut out, and I cut out some more so that the handle looked symmetric.

With the handles finished, I could once again do post-processing. I used the oscillating spindle sander to sand the inside of the handles. I then used the hand router with a different bit to round off the edges. It was a bit awkward finding a proper position for the wood to do this. I positioned the wood with one handle flat on the table so that I could use the router vertically. In doing this, the quick grip clamps got in the way at times, but I was able to complete the routing on the outer edge of the handles. For the inner edges I had to position the frame in the orientation it would be when the box is finished. I then used 120 grit sandpaper to sand the edges; they were quite sharp before doing this.

After all of this, here is the finished frame with the handles:

It was finally time to assemble the box. Using a frame at the bottom, I placed 3 pieces of wood to form the base of the box. I had to cut all three of them just slightly so that they would fit inside the frame. I estimated the amount I would need to cut and use the band saw. One thing I could improve here is slowly stripping off the edge of the wood with the band saw until it fit, and then measuring the amount I would need to cut off of the other two pieces. This way the lengths would be consistent. However, this wasn’t a major issue, and for the purposes of speed, it worked.

Using the 2×2’s I created supports that would hold the frames together. I placed the cutouts of the handles in between each frame so that they would be spaced a consistent 1″ apart, as in the instructions. Of course, things weren’t perfect, and the top frame ended up needing to be a little bit higher so that it would be flush with the top of the supports. However, it was a minor issue. Here is the finished, assembled box:

Now it is time to stain. I used a black stain on my wood, applying 2 or so coats. It was hard to keep track of how many coats I had used because the first coat had varying results on the appearance of the wood. Therefore instead of keeping track of coats, I kept staining until I achieved the desired appearance of the wood. Here is the stained box:

Cost analysis
Raw materials:
  • 1×4 lumber
    • $0.39 per foot; 202.5 total inches of 1×4; $6.62 
  • 2×2 lumber
    • $0.37 per foot; 40 total inches of 2×2; $1.24
  • Wood screws
    • $12.98 for 320; estimate 30 screws used: $1.22

Labor:

This project took me around 12 hours. The box is definitely usable, so I would value my work at minimum wage in Texas: $7.25. The total labor cost is then $87.

Machine time:

I used various power and hand tools during this project. I don’t own them, nor is it necessary to to do this project, so it doesn’t make sense to include prices of these tools. The cost of a maker space membership varies greatly, so I would estimate the cost of using the OEDK at being $50 per month. Time spent using any membership also varies wildly; for example, there could be a period where you don’t use it for 2 weeks in a month, so it doesn’t make sense to assume each hour of the membership is priced equally. Therefore I will just take the entire cost of the month as the cost to complete this project, as individual paces of completion vary. $50

Total cost: $146.08

Finally, here is an image of my clean workspace: