When Lindsay and I received the Canvas notification questioning if we wanted our wood precut or if we wanted to cut it ourselves, we shared a knowing glance. The glance foretold the entirety of our project: our willingness to be bold, our eagerness to try new things, and our excitement at the prospect of working with wood.

Knowing the project was bound to be time consuming, we wasted no time jumping into the deep end. Tasked with cutting nine 14.5″ 1×4 planks, six 12″ 1×4 planks, and four 11″ 2×2 planks, we began with the miter saw. However, due to issues with someone else having reserved the machine yet not being there, we were kicked off and forced to migrate to the table saw.

We alternated cutting our 14.5″, 12″, and 11″ planks, carefully measuring each for consistency. Despite utilizing a measuring tape, X-Acto knife, and rafter angle square to mark exactly how long each plank should be, and bringing the plank up to the blade while the machine was off to ensure the cut was exactly where we wanted it, we later discovered our 14.5″ planks varied in length (from around 14″ to 14.5″). While disappointed, we did not want to waste wood or take material from others in class. So, we grabbed the two longest 14.5″ planks and began to put together the base of the crate.

Utilizing the method learned in class, we secured a 14.5″ plank and a 12″ plank together in the corner clamp, and clamped that to the table. We used a screwdriver with a 1/8″ drill bit to make two pilot holes in the wood. We then used the countersink drill bit to create space for the screw’s head in the plank. 

For all screws, we tried our best to keep them as lined up as possible, whether that be vertically or horizontally, to maintain as clean of a look as possible.

After, we used the Phillips head bit to screw in the wood screws. We repeated this process such that there were two screws passing through the top of each 12″ plank meeting the end of each 14.5″ plank to create the rectangular base of the crate.

While I did my best to hold the screwdriver perfectly steady, horizontal, and at the right speed, not all of the screws appear perfect. Though bothersome, this is expected as a beginner. 

As the project progressed and I continued practicing my screwdriver skills, the screws appeared more consistent and the task itself became easier, which is positive as it demonstrates I was applying what I was learning from my mistakes.

We then utilized the table router to route the edges of our remaining planks. We routed each edge that would be facing outwards twice for consistency. We decided not to route all four edges of the planks because it wasn’t necessary. Aesthetically, only two edges would be visible on the exterior.

We attempted to route the exterior edges of the rectangular base of the crate, however there was not enough space between the router bit and the rails to account for the slight height difference at the corners from the planks not being perfectly aligned. So, we took the hand router outside and routed each visible edge (two per plank), carefully ensuring the router did not near any screws, as that would have created sparks. When hand routing, we placed scrap pieces of wood on top of our base so that we wouldn’t ruin the existing structure with marks from the clamps.

We went back inside and selected the longest remaining 14.5″ planks to use as the bottom of the crate. Placing them how we wanted them to be spaced, we clamped the base to the table with the planks on the bottom. As seen below, the screwing process was repeated. Two screws were added on each end of the wooden plank into the base frame to attach the planks to the base. A bit of sanding was done on the middle plank’s edge to allow it to fit perfectly within the frame.

To determine the spacing of the three rectangular frames on the crate, we put pieces of wood between the rectangles as we screwed to maintain equivalent distance.

One of the final corners had one end that was too long and another end that was too short. So, we took it to the miter saw and cut off a few millimeters from the end and reused that piece to fill the gap between the end of the short plank and the other corner.

We noticed another gap between planks in a corner we had already assembled. To solve this issue, as well as some smaller chunks of wood that had split off when the countersinks were screwed, we mixed fine sawdust with wood glue and shoved it into the negative space.

This worked pretty well in the photo below on the left with the massive gap (which you can’t see because we used our concoction to hide it!!), as we were able to hide the screws that had previously been exposed within, as well as enhance the flow of the piece by making it appear as one structure. With smaller chunks that had splintered off from the drill bits, it didn’t help as much (see photo below on the right). The awkward size didn’t allow for the substance to really stick in there, and we sanded the edges too quickly after we added the substance, which removed it almost completely in some areas. However, this definitely fixed the massive problem of the large gap we had on the one corner so overall I’d call it a success.

 

 

 

 

 

After completing the structure of the crate (photo on the right!!), we moved onto some post-processing techniques learned in class. We used the orbital sander, with 100 and 180 grit, on the exterior of the crate (four sides and bottom) to smooth out the surface of the wood as well as remove scratch marks and what appeared to be dirt marks. We wore masks while sanding to avoid wooden particles and sawdust infiltrating our lungs.

After the orbital sander, Lindsay sanded the interior while I sanded all of the corner edges with 60, 120, 180, and 220 grit. 

I focused on sanding the corners a bit more than what might be typical if just considering safety. This way they might blend more with the routed edges, adding a bit of uniformity across the piece.

Once completing sanding, we cleaned up all of the dust in the area. We then found our Red Mahogany stain. After being fatefully handed a sample of the Red Mahogany stain in class last week, Lindsay and I knew it was meant to be. Chatter overheard between our TAs was worrying — they were unsure if the Red Mahogany was stolen by whoever stole the crates outside during class, or if it was even in stock at the OEDK. However, sure enough, Saturday morning, there it was: Red Mahogany. We thoroughly read the instructions, which led us to decide to wipe our crate off with paper towels as all dust needed to be removed from the surface before staining. We also put on gloves just in case, got cardboard to sit the crate on top of while staining, and gathered paper towels to wipe the stain off post-application. Lindsay began painting the gorgeous Red Mahogany on, and I began wiping it off. We remembered to apply with the grain, as included in the instructions. After staining the exterior four sides, we realized the last two sides were a bit lighter than the first two. We didn’t want to add more, determining it would be better to apply a second coat later if needed. But then a revelation hit — the stain needed to be restirred! Once well stirred again, I began applying it to the inside of the crate. Sure enough, it looked darker even after being wiped away. We continued this process of stirring, applying, and wiping until all surfaces of the crate had been stained with our beautiful Red Mahogany. One thing to consider was that it was nearly 90 degrees when we applied the stain, and was over 90 degrees during the day as it was drying outdoors. The ideal range on the instructions suggested 60-90 degrees. But, there’s only so much you can do with the Houston weather. Eight hours later and we determined the crate did not require a second staining.

Note one example of how we thoroughly cleaned our workspaces after we were done!