For this assignment, Sammie (my partner) and I built a simple wooden crate. Outside of our in-class activities, this was the first time that I had used any woodworking tools, so I was a bit intimidated at first. However, with practice, help from TAs/instructors, and some trial and error, we were able to build a fully functional crate!
We started off by hand-routing the edges for our uncut 1×4 wood planks. We could have cut the wood before routing with a table router, but since the miter saw was occupied when we first began, we decided to route by hand to make the best use of our time. We clamped the planks of wood to the table, then took turns routing each side. It was difficult to keep the routing consistent for the entire length of the plank, so we rerouted some of the sections where we saw noticeable inconsistencies. Furthermore, there were some parts of the wood that slightly bulged even after being routed over multiple times, but we decided to fix those parts during the sanding process. Overall, I think my routing definitely became more stable over time, with my later routes being much more consistent compared to the first ones I did.

Uncut wood blanks before routing.

Uncut wood planks after routing.

Cleaned workspace after routing.
After routing, we cut our wood using the miter saw. We needed to cut 6 12″ 1×4 planks, 9 14.5″ 1×4 planks, and 4 2×2 supports. Our overall workflow was to first measure the desired length onto the wood and mark it with a pencil, then cut out that piece and use it as a reference to cut all other pieces of that desired length.

Measuring the length of wood using a reference piece.

Me having a great time with the miter saw 😀
Due to its size, noise, and the fact that it had fast-spinning blades, the miter saw was a bit intimidating to use at first. However, it was a pretty simple machine, and I got used to it after one or two cuts. Though most of our planks came out to be about the same length, there was definitely a bit of variation. I think this might be due to the fact that we weren’t 100% consistent about cutting inside, outside, or on the line, so there’s definitely room for improvement there. However, we now had all of our cut planks!

Wood planks cut by the miter saw.

Cleaned workspace after using the miter saw.
Next, we used the planer to remove some of the markings on the wood. Though the machine is simple to operate, it was kind of hard to figure out the height we had to set it to in order to shave off just the right amount from the surface. There were a lot of runs where the input looked basically identical to the output, but that often led to us overshooting the next run and shaving off a bit too much. With a lot of trial and error, we were able to plane our wood successfully.

Shaving off the surface our wood planks with the planer.

Cleaned workspace after using the planer.
After planing, we used the orbital sander to do some rough sanding before assembly. We sanded each piece of wood with progressively increasing grit levels, starting with 60, then 120, then 240. Though the orbital sander is also a very straightforward piece of equipment, it was a pretty tiresome process because there were so many wood planks to sand. However, it was super satisfying to feel how the wood got progressively smoother after each sand. After sanding with 120 grit, I thought the wood was already pretty smooth, but sanding with 240 made me feel like the 120 wood was really rough.

Rough sanding on our wood planks with the orbital sander.
Though sanding the surface of the wood was pretty straightforward, sanding the edges was a bit more difficult. Sometimes, it felt like I was taking off too much of the wood or creating uneven edges by sanding one section a bit more than another, so my consistency with that could definitely use some practice.

Cleaned workspace after sanding.
The next step was to cut out the handles on 2 of the 12″ planks. To do so, we first sketched out the section we wanted to cut, and then cut it out using the bandsaw.

Sketch of handle on wood plank.
Since we didn’t practice using the bandsaw in class, this was my first time using it, and it was definitely a bit intimidating at first. Before starting, I learned the strategy necessary to cut sharp edges/turns on the bandsaw: first cut one edge, then retract the bandsaw and cut from the other side to meet the joint where the first cut ends, cut the other edge, then cut from the open side to meet the other joint.

Cutting the first edge.

Cutting a curve from the other side.
It was definitely a struggle to keep the cutting path aligned with the line. In particular, I don’t think I was very consistent about staying inside or outside the line. Still, the handles ended up pretty symmetrical and not too shabby.

Handles after being cut.
Next, I needed to smooth out edges of the handles. At first, I thought we could accomplish this by simply routing the handles, so I tried to route the edges with a hand router. Unfortunately, I think the bit I was using didn’t have a bit guard, so it made a really shallow, uneven route into the wood.

Not-very-aesthetic route on the handle.
From there, I tried to use the table router with the backplate moved back, but the routing was still pretty inconsistent, so I decided to just sand down the handle instead. Once again, I started with 60 grit, then progressed to 120 and 240. By the end, I was pretty satisfied with the product because I could no longer tell that the router had messed it up to begin with. In fact, it had created a slight angle-in that your fingers could rest on naturally when gripping the handle, so that was a pleasant surprise.

Handles after being sanded down.

Cleaned workspace after sanding the handles.
Now that we had all the pieces, it was time to assemble the crate. We first marked where we wanted to drill the holes, then used corner clamps to secure the side pieces (one 14.5″, one 12″ at a time) and drill together 3 rectangular frames.

Using the corner clamp to secure 2 side pieces together.

One completed box frame.
We then placed 3 14.5″ planks at the bottom of one of the rectangular frames, secured all moving parts as best as we could using clamps and other heavy objects, marked the spots where we planned to drill, and drilled the bottom planks to the side of the box frame.

Drilling the bottom planks into the side of the box frame.
Next, we secured, marked, and drilled in 4 2×2 support beams to the corners of the same rectangular frame.

Drilling the support beams for the crate.
Finally, we attached the two remaining rectangular frames to the 4 support beams. In order to create uniform gaps between the frames, we laid two spare 1×4 wood planks onto the bottom frame and placed the new rectangular frame atop those planks before drilling. Of course, we placed the frame with the handles at top.

Using spare 1×4 planks to mark the position of the remaining two rectangular frames.

Drilling in the remaining two rectangular frames to the support beams.

Cleaning the workspace after assembly.
The assembly of the box went relatively smoothly, but we did encounter some minor issues. For one, the height of the support beams did not end up perfectly aligning with the height of the top rectangular frame. Also, when drilling one of the holes on the side, there ended up being some tear-out due to the soft, porous nature of the wood. Although both of these issues do not really affect the structural integrity of the box, they do slightly impact the aesthetics.
The last step for us was to implement some finishing touches. First, we sanded the entire crate by hand at 320 then 400 grit so that the box would have a smoother finish.

Sanding the crate by hand after assembly.
Finally, we applied a tung oil finish to the crate in order to enhance the wood grain and give it a warmer, richer appearance. After leaving it out to dry for about 24 hours, we wiped it down and had our final product!

Applying a tung oil finish to the crate.

Letting the tung oil absorb for 24 hours.

Cleaned workspace after finishing.
Overall, I’m pretty satisfied with how this crate turned out. Although it’s definitely not perfect, I would say that it’s a decent first-attempt at woodworking, and I will definitely be returning to the woodshop in the future!
Cost Breakdown:
Materials: $20.89
- 3 planks of 1″ x 4″ x 8′ pine lumber: 3.14 x 3 = $9.42
- 1 plank of 2″ x 2″ x 8′ pine lumber: $2.97
- 42 construction screws: (42/184)(9.98) = $2.28
- 3 Velcro sanding discs: (3/150)(15.99) = $0.32
- 1 sheet of 320 grit sandpaper = (1/6)(6.68) = $1.11
- 1 sheet of 400 grit sandpaper = (1/6)(4.98) = $1.00
- ~1/3 cup Watco tung oil: (1/3/4)(27.98) = $2.33
- 3 pcs. of staining cloth: (3/80)(39) = $1.46
Labor: $165
- The l0west end of woodworking wage in our area is around $11/hr. Since we are total beginners, we would probably work at this rate. We worked for about 7.5 hours on this crate, so (2)(11)(7.5) = $165.
Machines/Equipment: $50
It would be extremely difficult to calculate the approximate cost of using woodworking machinery for one product, so it is instead a better approximation to see if there are any makerspaces/woodworking shops that allow hourly usage. There is a woodshop/makerspace that offers $50/month access to students, so we can use that.
That brings the total cost of our crate to $235.89.